8, Difficult ( technical 3 + altitudinal 5 ) | 54 Days in Nepal

Ascent of Mt. Makalu

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Makalu, the world's fifth highest peak in the world rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters). This beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but it’s perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak. The subsidary peak rising just north of the main summit connected by a saddle is called Chomolonzo (25,650 ft.) It is interesting to note that the summit ridge is the demarcation point indicating the border between Nepal on the Southern side and Tibet to the North.

The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect - Kumba karna, which means The Giant.

Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954.
  • Activities

    Mountaineering, Expeditions

  • Altitude

    8,463 m
  • Departure Date

    April 16 - June 07 | August 22 - October 13
  • Group size

    7-12 pax
  • Trip Starts

    Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends

    Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu

Arrive in Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 2-3 Kathmandu

Kathmandu. Necessary preparations for the expedition.

Day 4 Flight Kathmandu

Flight Kathmandu – Tumlingtar, Trek to Khandbari.

Day 5 Trek to Chichila

Trek to Chichila

Day 6 Trek to Num

Trek to Num

Day 7 Trek to Sedua

Trek to Sedua

Day 8 Trek to tashi Gaon

Trek to tashi Gaon

Day 9 Rest Day in Tashi Gaon

Rest Day in Tashi Gaon

Day 10 Trek to Kauma

Trek to Kauma

Day 11 Trek to Dobato

Trek to Dobato

Day 12 Trek to Yangle Kharka

Trek to Yangle Kharka

Day 13 Trek to Langmale Kharka

Trek to Langmale Kharka

Day 14 Trek to Makalu Base Camp.

Trek to Makalu Base Camp.

Day 15 Rest Day at Makalu Base Camp

Rest Day at Makalu Base Camp – Acclimatization & Arrangements for the High Camp.

Day 16 Makalu (Higher) Base Camp (5,600m)

Makalu (Higher) Base Camp (5,600m).

Day 17-46 Climbing Period for Makalu 1 (8,463m)

Climbing Period for Makalu 1 (8,463m)

Day 47 Makalu BC – Langmale Kharka

Makalu BC – Langmale Kharka

Day 48 Trek to Dobato

Trek to Dobato

Day 49 Trek to Tashi Gaun

Trek to Tashi Gaun

Day 50 Trek to Num

Trek to Num

Day 51 Drive to Tumlingtar

Drive to Tumlingtar

Day 52 Flight to Kathmandu

Flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.

Day 53 Kathmandu

Free day in Kathmandu.

Day 54 Final Departure

Final Departure.

Fitness Level and Technical Ability

Climbers wishing to join this expedition must already be experienced with rock and ice climbing and have successfully completed previous climbs at high altitude, over 4500m (15,000ft).

This expedition requires excellent levels of fitness to endure the extreme conditions of summiting big peaks. To prepare for this, climbers should undergo a regular and strenuous exercise regime for at least 6 months to build their strength, stamina and endurance.

Trip Map

Cost Include

  • Arrival & Departure Airport transfers
  • 5 nights in Kathmandu on Bed & Breakfast Basis
  • Flight to KTM-Tumlingtar-KTM for member & staffs.
  • Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base Camp for member & Staffs.
  • Expedition Permit, National Park & TIMS Permit, Garbage Deposit Fees
  • 1 Government Liaison officer
  • 1 High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (Makalu Summiter) for 2 members
  • 1 Base Camp Cook and Kitchen Helpers.
  • All neccessary Porters for Up & Down.
  • All Nepali staffs Insurance/ wages and equipment allowance
  • 60 kgs per member for personal baggage
  • Foam Mattresses, Dinning/Kitchen//Toilet/Store Tent, Hot Shower Tent, Tables & Chairs, All necessary Cooking gears
  • 1 Solar Panel for lighting and Charging
  • High Altitude Tent for members & Sherpa
  • 1 Base Camp Tent per members
  • High Altitude food for member & staffs
  • Epi gas / High Altitude Cooking Pot & Stove
  • 2 bottle oxygen with mask & Regulator for Member & Sherpa.
  • All necessary Climbing route equipments.
  • Walkie/talkie for communication.

Cost Does not Include

  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu Hotel stay / Personal equipments
  • Insurance: Travel/Accident/Medical /emergency evacuation
  • Nepal Entry Visa fee
  • Sherpa Summit Bonus US$ 500.
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed
  • All other personal nature expenses.

Accommodation

  • Hotel in Kathmandu ***** on Bed & Breakfast Basis for 3 nights at the beginning and 2 nights at the end of the expedition, in double rooms.
  • All lodges on the trek.
  • In BC and ABC - 1 tent for 1 member.
  • High camps – 1 tent for 2 members.

Staff

  • Nepalese liaison officer
  • Cooks from Nepal
  • Kitchen boy from Nepal
  • High-altitude Sherpas – 1 for 2 member
(All our high-altitude Sherpas have Makalu experience.They bring all shared equipment and oxygen cylinders to high-altitude camps and accompany team members all the way form BC to the summit.)

Booking procedure

If your decision to take part in our expedition if firm, please send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer):

Click Here

Weather

Weather on Makalu is very changeable. Every day we will look for forecasts in Internet and adjust to them our planning of acclimatization and ascent.

Personal gear

Technical Equipment for the ascent

  • Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
  • Rucksack 70-80 liters
  • Rucksack 35-40 liters
  • Harness
  • Prussiks
  • Karabiners with screwgate lockers - 3 items
  • Jumar (ascender)
  • Telescope ski poles
  • Thermos
  • Rappel device
  • Ice Axe
  • Head lamp
  • Photo camera
  • Video camera and assessors
  • Accumulators
  • Personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet

  • Trekking shoes
  • Boots of "Everest" Millet type
  • Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
  • Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
  • Windblock jacket
  • Windblock trousers
  • Jacket "Polartec - 100" - 2 items
  • Warm underwear - 2 sets
  • Personal underwear
  • Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
  • Thinsulate gloves
  • Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
  • Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Windblock face mask
  • UV glasses
  • Ski goggles (preferably)
  • Gaiters

Meet your experts

Mingma Gelu Sherpa

Mingma Gelu Sherpa is a mountaineer and entrepreneur. He has summited Mt. Everest 8 times. He is also the first Nepali to summit Mt. Elbrus in Russia. He has been on the mountains since his youth, coming from the Makalu region, and working on mountain expeditions since the age of 14.

Phone: +977 9851096286
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