7, relatively difficult ( technical 3 + altitudinal 4 ) | 30 Days in Nepal

Ascent of Mt. Baruntse

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Mt. Baruntse (7129m) is one of the most beautiful and accessi ble 7000m. peaks in Nepal. It lies in the heart of the Khumbu massif to the west of Mt Makalu(8463m). The Baruntse Base Camp at an altitude around 5400m is surrounded by some of the world’s famous peaks: Everest, Amadablam, Lhotse and many others. This peak is technically not so demanding, as compared to Amadablam and Pumori, though it offers a good experience of snow and ice climb with some ice cliff obstacle. The south -East Ridge of Mt. Baruntse is a bit difficult because of being straightforward ascent. The expedition trip begins at Lukla and takes across the Hongu valley to the long southern ridge for ascent to the summit.
Lukla - Chutanga - Nau Lekha - Kothe - Thagnag - Khare - Mera Base Camp - Seto Pokhari - Baruntse Base Camp - Summit
  • Activities

    Mountaineering, Expeditions

  • Altitude

    7,129 m
  • Departure Date

    April 17 - May 17 | September 20 - October 20
  • Group size

    6-12 pax
  • Trip Starts

    Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends

    Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu

Arrival to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Day 2 Preparation for the expedition

Meeting in NTB. Checking of equipment by guide

Day 3 Flight to Lukla (2800m)

Hiring of porters. Trek to Chutang (3370m), 5 hours.

Day 4 The acclimatization trek close to Zatrwa La

The acclimatization trek close to Zatrwa La (to 4000m) and back. Overnight in the same lodge in Chutang.

Day 5 Trek crossing Zatrwa La (4610m)

Trek to Tuli Kharka (4250m), 6-7 hours. Overnight in lodge.

Day 6 Trek to Kothe (3850m)

Trek to Kothe (3850m), 4-5 hours. Overnight in lodge.

Day 7 Trek to Thagnag (4350m)

Trek to Thagnag (4350m). Overnight in lodge.

Day 8 Trek to Khare (4950m)

Trek to Khare (4950m), 4 hours. Overnight in lodge.

Day 9 The acclimatization trek

The acclimatization trek close to 5200 m. Overnight in the same lodge in Khare.

Day 10 Trek Khare - Mera Base

Trek Khare - Mera Base Camp, crossing Mera La (5415 m), 6 hours. Overnight in camp.

Day 11 Trek to Seto Pokhari (4850m)

Trek to Seto Pokhari (4850m), 5 hours. Overnight in camp.

Day 12 Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5400m)

Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5400m), 6 hours. Accommodating in the camp.

Day 13-24 Climbing period of Mt. Baruntse 7129 m

Climbing period of Mt. Baruntse 7129 m.

Day 25 Descend from Baruntse Base Camp

Descend from Baruntse Base Camp to Kolma Dingma (4500m), 6 hours. Overnight in camp or lodge.

Day 26 Kolma Dingma – Thagnag (4350m)

Kolma Dingma – Thagnag (4350m), 6 hours. Overnight in lodge.

Day 27 Trek Thagnag – Zatrwa La (4610m)

Trek Thagnag – Zatrwa La (4610m), 6 hours. Overnight in lodge.

Day 28 Trek Zatrwa La – Lukla (2800m)

Trek Zatrwa La – Lukla (2800m), 7 hours. Overnight in guest-house.

Day 29 Flight to Kathmandu

Flight to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Day 30 Final Departure

Final Departure.

Fitness Level and Technical Ability

Climbers wishing to join this expedition must already be experienced with rock and ice climbing and have successfully completed previous climbs at high altitude, over 4500m (15,000ft).

This expedition requires excellent levels of fitness to endure the extreme conditions of summiting big peaks. To prepare for this, climbers should undergo a regular and strenuous exercise regime for at least 6 months to build their strength, stamina and endurance.

Trip Map

Cost Include

  • Arrival & Departure Airport transfers
  • 4 nights in Kathmandu on Bed & Breakfast Basis
  • Flights KTM-LUKLA-KTM for member & staffs.
  • Food in Base Camp
  • Expedition Permit, National Park & TIMS Permit, Garbage Deposit Fees
  • 1 Government Liaison officer
  • 1 High Altitude Climbing Sherpa between 2 members.
  • 1 Cook for the Base Camp
  • 1 Kitchen Boy helper for the Base Camp
  • All Necessary Porters from Lukla - Baruntse Base Camp - Lukla.
  • All Nepali staffs Insurance/ wages and equipment allowance
  • Foam Mattresses, Dinning/Kitchen//Toilet/Store Tent, Hot Shower Tent, Tables & Chairs, All necessary Cooking gears
  • 1 Solar Panel for lighting and Charging
  • High Altitude Tent for members & Sherpa
  • 1 Base Camp Tent for each member
  • High Altitude food for members & staff
  • Epi gas / High Altitude Cooking Pot & Stove
  • All necessary Climbing route equipments
  • Walkie / Talkie for communication.

Cost Does not Include

  • International flights
  • Nepal Entry Visa fee
  • Lunch & Dinner in Kathmandu / Personal equipments
  • Insurance: Travel/Accident/Medical /Emergency evacuation
  • Sherpa Summit Bonus US$ 500
  • All other personal nature expenses

Extra Optional Service

Services of High Altitude Sherpa:
USD 3,000
(Include the HA Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents etc… above advance base camp)
Poisk Oxygen Bottle 4 Liter:
US$ 450 per bottle
Poisk system mask and regulator:
US $ 650

Payment procedure

Booking deposit:
1000 USD.
The price increases by 10% if your booking application comes to us later than 30 days prior to the expedition. Balance payment is due not later than 30 days prior to the expedition. Cancellation more than 15 days prior to the expedition – 50% refund. Less than 10 days – no refund is given.

Necessary travel papers (documents)

  • Permit of Baruntse.
  • National Park Ticket.

Staff

  • One Climbing Sirdar - Leader of Expedition.
  • Cook
  • Kitchen worker.
  • Nepalese liaison officer.

Booking procedure

If your decision to take part in our expedition if firm, please send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer):

Click Here

Accommodation

  • Hotel in Kathmandu *** on Bed & Breakfast Basis for 3 nights at the beginning and 1 nights at the end of the expedition, in double rooms.
  • Accommodation in trek from Luka to Baruntse BC and Baruntse BC to Lukla.
  • In BC - 1 tent for 1 person.

Personal gear

Technical Equipment for the ascent

  • Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
  • Rucksack 70-80 liters
  • Rucksack 35-40 liters
  • Harness
  • Prussiks
  • Karabiners with screwgate lockers - 3 items
  • Jumar (ascender)
  • Telescope ski poles
  • Thermos
  • Rappel device
  • Ice Axe
  • Head lamp
  • Photo camera
  • Video camera and assessors
  • Accumulators
  • Personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet

  • Trekking shoes
  • Boots of "Everest" Millet type
  • Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
  • Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
  • Windblock jacket
  • Windblock trousers
  • Jacket "Polartec - 100" - 2 items
  • Warm underwear - 2 sets
  • Personal underwear
  • Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
  • Thinsulate gloves
  • Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
  • Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Windblock face mask
  • UV glasses
  • Ski goggles (preferably)
  • Gaiters

Meet your experts

Mingma Gelu Sherpa

Mingma Gelu Sherpa is a mountaineer and entrepreneur. He has summited Mt. Everest 8 times. He is also the first Nepali to summit Mt. Elbrus in Russia. He has been on the mountains since his youth, coming from the Makalu region, and working on mountain expeditions since the age of 14.

Phone: +977 9851096286
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