5.5, Mid ( technical 0 + altitudinal 5.5 ) | 44 Days in Nepal

Ascent of Mount Lhotse

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Mount Lhotse which means south peaks is part of the Everest massif. By virtue of it being 3 km south of Mount Everest, from which it is separated by the South Col. It is considered as an independent mountain. It was first climbed by F. Luchsinger & E.Reiss in 1956. An impressive ring of three peaks makes up the Lhotse climbing massif: Mount Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Mount Lhotse Shar. The South Face of this Mount is one of the largest mountain faces and the fourth highest mountain in the world.

"Mount Lhotse" which means south peaks is part of the Everest massif. By virtue of it being 3 km south of Mount Everest, from which it is separated by the South Col. It is considered as an independent mountain. It was first climbed by F. Luchsinger & E.Reiss in 1956. An impressive ring of three peaks makes up the Lhotse climbing massif: Mount Lhotse East or Middle, Lhotse & Mount Lhotse Shar. The South Face of this Mount is one of the largest mountain faces and the fourth highest mountain in the world. We attempt to climb the normal route to the tallest peak of the Mount Lhotse massif. Lhotse Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier, same as Everest BC. The section during the climb, which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous, is the Khumbu Icefall. The first successful ascent of the mountain was in 1956 by the Swiss on the West Face. The South Face though attempted many times was successful climbed only in 1984 by a Czech expedition team. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities. Beginning our expedition in after a panoramic flight to Lukla, following the classic Everest route, we set up base camp on same as Everest Base camp, after our b team of sherpa's set up various camps, where members have the chance to up and down acclimatizing and on a favorable day we attempt to climb this impressive mountaineering in Nepal.

  • Activities

    Mountaineering, Expeditions

  • Altitude

    8,516 m
  • Group size

    7-12 pax
  • Departure Date

    April 08 - May 21 | August 26 - October 08
  • Service

    Sport Style
  • Trip Starts

    Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends

    Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival in Kathmandu transfer to hotel
Arrival in Kathmandu transfer to hotel
Day 2 Kathmandu for official procedures and necessary arrangements.
Kathmandu for official procedures and necessary arrangements.
Day 3 Preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
Preparation for expedition in Kathmandu
Day 4 Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla trek to Phakding
Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla trek to Phakding
Day 5 Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar Day
Trek Phakding to Namche Bazaar Day
Day 6 Rest day at Namche Bazaar
Rest day at Namche Bazaar
Day 7 Trek Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Trek Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Day 8 Trek Tengboche to Pheriche
Trek Tengboche to Pheriche
Day 9 Trek Pheriche to Lobuche
Trek Pheriche to Lobuche
Day 10 Trek Lobuche to Lhotse Base Camp
Trek Lobuche to Lhotse Base Camp
Day 11 Rest day at Lhoste Base Camp for acclimatization
Rest day at Lhoste Base Camp for acclimatization
Day 12-36 Climbing Period.
Climbing Period.
Day 37 Trek Lhotse Base Camp to Lobuche
Trek Lhotse Base Camp to Lobuche
Day 38 Trek Lobuche to Tengboche
Trek Lobuche to Tengboche
Day 39 Trek Tengboche to Namche Bazaar Day
Trek Tengboche to Namche Bazaar Day
Day 40 Trek Namche Bazaar to Phakding
Trek Namche Bazaar to Phakding
Day 41 Trek Phakding to Lukla
Trek Phakding to Lukla
Day 42 Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 43 Rest day at Kathmandu
Rest day at Kathmandu
Day 44 Departure to your next destination
Departure to your next destination

Fitness Level and Technical Ability

Climbers wishing to join this expedition must already be experienced with rock and ice climbing and have successfully completed previous climbs at high altitude, over 4500m (15,000ft).

This expedition requires excellent levels of fitness to endure the extreme conditions of summiting big peaks. To prepare for this, climbers should undergo a regular and strenuous exercise regime for at least 6 months to build their strength, stamina and endurance.

Trip Map

Cost Include

  • Peak Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse.
  • Khumbu Ice Fall route fee.
  • Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
  • Service of Government Liaison Officer.
  • Schedule flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu.
  • Airport Transfers in Kathmandu.
  • 5 nights ***** hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on BB plan (before and after the expedition
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back (Cargo to Lukla and then by porters to base camp and back)
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • One day Kathmandu Sight Seeing before the expedition.
  • Service of 1 high altitude Sherpa for each member.
  • Expedition cook at Base Camp.
  • 1 Kitchen Boy at Base Camp.
  • Expedition cook at Camp II.
  • All Necessary Porters for Up and Down.
  • 60 kgs per member for personal baggage.
  • High altitude tents for expedition team.
  • High altitude food for expedition team.
  • High altitude fuel for expedition team.
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary ropes, ice bars, ice screws etc…).
  • Walkie-Talkie for each climbing member and climbing Sherpa.
  • 2 Oxygen bottle (4 ltrs) per member with Mask and Regulator (for use only)- ‘Poisk Oxygen System”.
  • 1 Oxygen bottle (4 Ltrs) per climbing Sherpa with Mask and Regulator.
  • Base Camp single tent for each member.
  • Foam Mattresses, Dinning/Kitchen/Toilet/Store Tent, Hot Shower Tent at Base camp.
  • Dining Heater at Base Camp.
  • All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition.
  • Equipments allowance and wages of Climbing Sherpa, cook, kitchen staff and Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of all Nepalese Staffs.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance of all Sherpa staffs.
  • Solar panel or Generator at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Satellite phone available at base camp, but nominal charge is applicable for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at base camp.
  • Sherpa Summit Bonus & Climbing Bonus.
  • Garbage deposit fee.

Cost Does not Include

  • International airfare from / to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival)
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal wearing and gears above base camp
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone,
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.

Payment procedure

Booking deposit:
2000 USD.
Non-refundable deposit 2000 USD. The price goes up by 10% 30 days before the expedition start. Full balance is due 30 days before the expedition start. Cancellation 20 days before the expedition – 50% refund. Less than 20 days – no refund.

Necessary travel papers (documents)

  • Tibetan visa: we get a group one
  • Climbing permit
  • 4 passport photos - for visas

Accommodation

  • Hotel in Kathmandu ***** on Bed & Breakfast Basis for 3 nights at the beginning and 2 nights at the end of the expedition, in double rooms.
  • All lodges on the trek.
  • In BC and ABC - 1 tent for 1 member
  • High camps – 1 tent for 2 members.

Meals

  • In Kathmandu: breakfasts only
  • In Tibet: three meals a day in restaurants t
  • In BC, IBC, ABC: three meals a day, cooked by Nepalese cooks and Tibetan kitchen-boys on gas stoves in special kitchen tents. Any amount of hot water for washing or boiled water for drinking is available. We eat in spacious mess tents equipped with tables and chairs.
  • Food-stuffs for high camps is freeze-dried ones, which you cook (with the help of guides and Sherpas) on gas stoves. Water is melted snow.

Staff

  • Nepalese liaison officer
  • 1 Cook for BC & 1 Cook for Camp II
  • 1 Kitchen boy in BC
  • High-altitude Sherpas – 1 for 2 member (All our high-altitude Sherpas have Lhotse experience.)

Weather

Weather on Lhotse is very changeable. Every day we will look for forecasts in Internet and adjust to them our planning of acclimatization and ascent.

Booking procedure

If your decision to take part in our expedition if firm, please send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer):

Click Here

Health and medical insurance

We recommend that you bring your own first aid kit with specific medicines.
Attention! A necessary condition for participation in the expedition is the presence of the special climbing health insurance coverage of at leastUSD 30000.

Personal gear

Technical Equipment for the ascent

  • Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
  • Rucksack 70-80 liters
  • Rucksack 35-40 liters
  • Harness
  • Prussiks
  • Karabiners with screwgate lockers - 3 items
  • Jumar (ascender)
  • Telescope ski poles
  • Thermos
  • Rappel device
  • Ice Axe
  • Head lamp
  • Photo camera
  • Video camera and assessors
  • Accumulators
  • Personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet

  • Trekking shoes
  • Boots of "Everest" Millet type
  • Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
  • Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
  • Windblock jacket
  • Windblock trousers
  • Jacket "Polartec - 100" - 2 items
  • Warm underwear - 2 sets
  • Personal underwear
  • Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
  • Thinsulate gloves
  • Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
  • Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Windblock face mask
  • UV glasses
  • Ski goggles (preferably)
  • Gaiters

Meet your experts

Mingma Gelu Sherpa

Mingma Gelu Sherpa is a mountaineer and entrepreneur. He has summited Mt. Everest 8 times. He is also the first Nepali to summit Mt. Elbrus in Russia. He has been on the mountains since his youth, coming from the Makalu region, and working on mountain expeditions since the age of 14.

Phone: +977 9851096286
Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.