5.5, Mid ( technical 2 + altitudinal 3.5 ) | 17 Days in Nepal

Ascent of Mera Peak

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Standing proudly erect at an altitude of 6654m, Mera Peak is the most popular trekking destination and is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. This fairly challenging trek has been designed to cater to trekkers’ adventure needs to explore Mera peak from length to breadth. On scaling the summit of Mera Peak, we can have the most spectacular view of entire Himalayan ranges.
Mera Peak is usually, and perhaps incorrectly, regarded as the highest official trekking peak in Nepal. The confusion stems from its altitude and location being misreported by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. See the section on the real Mera Peak below.

In any case it remains a popular destination due to its easy standard route, which requires only basic mountaineering skills to achieve an altitude considerably higher than a European or North American peak. For many years the climb was Alpine Grade F (Facile / Easy), but due to recent summit block changes the final 30-40 meters has become Grade PD (Peu difficile / not very hard). See Recent Updates section below.
From the summit of Mera one can see 5 of the 6 highest mountains in the world: Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyo. The standard route from the north involves little more than high altitude glacier walking. The ease of reaching this elevation may be its biggest danger but good weather and snow conditions are, of course, necessary for safety and success. The west and south faces of the peak offer difficult technical routes.

The first ascent was on May 20, 1953 by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing. The region was first explored extensively by British expeditions in the early 50's before and after the ascent of Everest. Members of those teams included Edmund Hillary, Eric Shipton and Geroge Lowe.
Kathmandu - Lukla - Chutanga - Zatrwa La - Tashi Dingma - Tagnag - Khare - Mera La - High Camp - Mera peak Summit - Khote - Zatrwa La - Lukla - Kathmandu
  • Activities

    Trekking, Mountaineering

  • Altitude

    6,476 m
  • Departure Date

    April 09 - April 25 | September 28 - October 14 | October 26 - November 11
  • Group size

    4-12 pax
  • Trip Starts

    Kathmandu
  • Trip Ends

    Kathmandu

Itinerary

Day 1 Arrival in Kathmandu

Arrival in Kathmandu, capital of Nepal. Meeting at the airport, transfer to hotel. Walk around the city. We recommend a walk through the old town, walk around Durbar Square, watch new Royal Palace, Parliament, and numerous temples.

Day 2 Sightseeing in Kathmandu valley

Sight Seeing in Kathmandu valley. Familiarity with Kathmandu Durbar Square old palace, visit the palace of the living goddess Kumari. The world's largest ancient Stupa Boudhanath - center of Tibetan Buddhism. At sunset - a site visit of the Force - Swoyambhunath stupa, located at 77 E-meter hill, inhabited by monkeys, overlooking the Kathmandu valley. It offers the best views of the city and the Himalayas. Evening visa. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu

Day 3 Schedule flight to Lukla (2840m)

Schedule flight to Lukla (2840m). (2860m, 9384ft). Trek to Chutanga (3173m-10411ft). Early in the morning spectacular flight to Lukla and experience landing on a steep mountain runway, we take a lunch in Lukla and e ascent through fir and rhododendron forest towards Hungu valley, we reach our first trekking destination at yak pasture Chutanga 3440m.

Day 4 Rest day in Chutanga for acclimatization

Rest day in Chutanga for acclimatization. Today is just fourth day in Nepal. It is better to take Rest day at Chhutanga before our big pass Zatrawa-la to improve our Acclimatization for the Mera Peak. We take the little excursion around the place.

Day 5 Cross Zatrwa La (4610m - 15125ft)

Today, we trek from Chutenga to Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) and then to Zatrabok (4704m.). Along the trail, we will trek steep ascent to cross Zatrawala Pass. This pass offers spectacular views of Numbur Himal, Kongdi RI, Karyolang peak and many others.

Day 6 Trek to Khote (3520m - 11549ft)

Trek to Khote (3520m - 11549ft). Chirping birds wake us up early in the morning. We start after breakfast and reach a fine vantage point of the Hinku Valley where we line around in the splendor of nature surrounding us. Straight through the bamboo and pine forest in the narrow trails while enjoying the views of Mera and the Hinku Valley, there is possibility of encountering with mountain wild animals like sloth bear, jungle cat, etc., among the tall pine trees. Past Tashing Dingma we find shops and teahouses where we have lunch. We continue ahead by the ridge of the river in the Hinku valley all the way up and reach Kothe

Day 7 Trek to Tagnag (4350m - 14272ft)

Today is another short-trek day in which we trek along the ridge of the Hinku Khola in the shadow of Mera Peak. We take lunch at Gondishung, the summer herders' settlement in the west bank of the Hinku Drangka. Beyond Gondishung we pass a 200 year-old Lungsumgba Gompa where we can find Mera peak scripted in rock along with its route to reach Mera. We pray for our successful ascent of Mera Peak in the boulder of the Gompa offering incense. A short walk takes us to Thagnag, which is a summer grazing area with the primitive lodges and shops

Day 8 Trek to Khare (5100m - 16733ft)

We head towards Mera Base Camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to our camping spot at Khare. The camping experience at Khare is something that would cherish us throughout our life. It is pleasure to view beautiful North face of Mera Peak from our campsite at Khare

Day 9 Rest day in Khare for acclimatization

Today we have rest dayand we are preparing for ascent to Mera Peak. Here we use the moraine and scree slopes of the base of the Mera Glacier to familiarize ourselves with high altitude gear, with safety practices, with climbing techniques.

Day 10 Trek to Mera Base Camp (5415m - 17767ft)

Today after breakfast, we walk through boulder strewn course to reach Base Camp of Mera Peak. We have to march through steep route (about 260 meters ) and it takes around 2 to 3 hours to reach Base Camp. Upon reaching there after a short rest accompanied with our lunch, we start ice climbing training with our climbing guide. Inexperienced climbers need to learn much more today. After about 2-3 hours training, we might choose to go to Mera La. However, as we will be taking the route to High Camp through Mera La the next day, we might opt to rest at our camp at Base camp today admiring the eye-catching views the area offers.

Day 11 Ascent of Mera Peak (6476m - 21248ft)

Descend back to Khare. This is really a big day. Our crew will wake up around 1 a.m. for preparation. You should also wake up around 2.30 am and you will have very early breakfast today. After breakfast, your group will put on crampons and rope and set up for special journey to the summit. If you are a well-acclimatized group, it takes around 4-6 hours to reach the summit of Mera central for you. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,021ft), Cho-Oyu (8,210m/26,928ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,935ft), Makalu (8,463m/27,760ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586m/28,165ft), Nuptse (7,855m/25,765ft), Chamlang (7,319m/24,010ft), Baruntse (7 ,129m 23,383ft) Ama Dablam (6,812m/22,343ft) Kangtega (6,779m/22,235) and many peaks over six thousand. After achieving the summit, you retrace your steps down to high camp. After having a rest accompanied with some hot soups/tea at the high camp, we will continue down to Khare for the night's rest. You will really find this day really long but inspirational one for your life! Overnight at Khare.

Day 12 Trek to Khote(3600m)

Trek to Khote(3600m)

Day 13 Trek to Zatrwa la.

Trek to Zatrwa la.

Day 14 Trek to Chutanga.

Trek to Chutanga.

Day 15 Trek to Lukla.

Trek to Lukla.

Day 16 Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Fly back to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Day 17 Final Departure.

Final Departure.

Fitness Level and Technical Ability

Climbers wishing to join this expedition must already be experienced with rock and ice climbing and have successfully completed previous climbs at high altitude, over 4500m (15,000ft).

This expedition requires excellent levels of fitness to endure the extreme conditions of summiting big peaks. To prepare for this, climbers should undergo a regular and strenuous exercise regime for at least 6 months to build their strength, stamina and endurance.

Trip Map

Cost Include

  • Airport transfers - Pick up and drop.
  • 3 nights Hotel in Kathmandu on B/B.
  • 1 Sherpa Guide for the group.
  • Porter for common Climbing Equipment.
  • Necessary Tents & food in Mera Base Camp.
  • All necessary kitchen utensils.
  • General Climbing equipment such as Rope, Ice Screw, Snow Bar etc.
  • National Park fee.
  • Peak Permit Fee.
  • Garbage Deposit Fee.
  • Insurance for Nepalese staff.
  • Airport/Hotel/Airport transfers.
  • Flight to KTM-Lukla-KTM.
  • Kathmandu city tour.
  • KTM entrance fee during Sightseeing.
  • Rope Fixing Charge.
  • Climbing Equipment, Epi Gas & Gas Burner.

Cost Does not Include

  • Lunch & Dinner during Kathmandu stay.
  • Food during the trek.
  • Overnight accommodation in Hotel/Lodges along the trail.
  • Personal equipment.
  • High risk medical insurance.
  • International air ticket.
  • Alcoholic beverages & telephone calls.
  • Nepal Visa Fee.
  • Emergency rescue evacuation if needed.

By air and by land

Flight from Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu.

Booking procedure

If your decision to take part in our expedition if firm, please send us e-mail with:
Confirmation (in a form you prefer):

Click Here

Personal gear

Technical Equipment for the ascent

  • Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
  • Rucksack 70-80 liters
  • Rucksack 35-40 liters
  • Harness
  • Prussiks
  • Karabiners with screwgate lockers - 3 items
  • Jumar (ascender)
  • Telescope ski poles
  • Thermos
  • Rappel device
  • Ice Axe
  • Head lamp
  • Photo camera
  • Video camera and assessors
  • Accumulators
  • Personal crockery for high camps

Equipment for body and feet

  • Trekking shoes
  • Boots of "Everest" Millet type
  • Gore-tex jacket with wide hood
  • Gore-tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
  • Windblock jacket
  • Windblock trousers
  • Jacket "Polartec - 100" - 2 items
  • Warm underwear - 2 sets
  • Personal underwear
  • Polartec gloves – 2 pairs
  • Thinsulate gloves
  • Thinsulate mittens - 2 pairs
  • Warm woolen socks - 4-5 pairs
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Windblock face mask
  • UV glasses
  • Ski goggles (preferably)
  • Gaiters

Meet your experts

Mingma Gelu Sherpa

Mingma Gelu Sherpa is a mountaineer and entrepreneur. He has summited Mt. Everest 8 times. He is also the first Nepali to summit Mt. Elbrus in Russia. He has been on the mountains since his youth, coming from the Makalu region, and working on mountain expeditions since the age of 14.

Phone: +977 9851096286
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